ITALY– May 2004 Connie’s Journal
Thu 06 Flight booked with American Airlines: OAK to DFW, DFW to CDG (Paris). We upgraded to business class with air miles.
Fri 07 Alitalia from Paris to Rome (FCO). Arrived 2:30 pm and waited for Dale and Penny to arrive from London at 4:30. They were the last ones out of Customs, as their bags stayed in London! The Hotel Ara Pacis was supposed to have a driver there to pick up the 4 of us. After 3 phone calls he finally came, after 5:00. The hotel is near the Vatican, chosen upon Margaret Coffin’s recommendation, to be near the Hertz office on Lungotevere dei Mellini for an early pickup the next morning. When we arrived at the hotel we were told that they were moving us to a sister hotel, as theirs was overbooked. I explained why we had chosen their location. They said, no problem, they would transport us back and forth at no charge, which they did.
So the van took us to the Hotel Borromeo on Via Cavour between the Coliseum and the train station. At least we got a “tour” of central Rome in the Friday evening rush hour—drove past the Spanish Steps, Piazza Navone, Piazza Venezia, etc.! They promised that the van would pick us up again at 8 am and take us right back to Hertz. The Borromeo was small and comfortable, in the
heart of the old city. It was recommended that we walk a couple of blocks, up an alley and down a cobblestone back lane, to the Hostaria al Tettarello for dinner. Tiny, home style menu. I had bombatine con melanzane, Ken cannelloni. In bed shortly after 9 and right to sleep.
Sat 08 Nice hotel breakfast at 7 on their roof garden room. Attractive. Van picked us up at 8 and we got another tour of the city crossing back to the Hertz office next to the Tiber River. We shared the rental car with the Walwarks and of course got lost, or at least off track, several times before getting out of town—even though we had chosen the north side of town to be closest to the autostrada.
Took the A1 north to Orvieto. Parked in an underground garage and took the elevator and then a series of escalators, all inside the mountain, to the top to the village. Steep cliffs surround it on all sides, so it is really a typical medieval stronghold. We walked to the Piazza in front of the Duomo and up walked Ray, Charm, Roberta and Maria (the other 4 who will be sharing the next week with us.) This was a week trip arranged through the Orinda Hiking Club. They had come from Rome, too, but we were not sure whether or not we would meet here. We all sat at outside tables at a café on the piazza. Some had cappuccinos and sweets and others a pizza or sandwich. Walked the cobblestone streets a while after visiting the Duomo (Cathedral), then the 4 of us headed north to the Casa San Martino in the village of Lisciano Niccone in Umbria. The drive up the mountain from Lake Trasimeno was pretty, with occasional thunder showers.
At the Casa we met Erni, who is the caretaker while Lois Martin, the owner, is recovering in the US from a severely broken leg. After the other 4 arrived Erni drove some of us down to the village of Mercatale to show us where the bakery, best market and banks are. Penny and I used the internet in the village “bar” while Ken and Ray bought pastries, wine, cheeses, etc.
By pre-arrangement a cannelloni casserole was in the refrigerator ready to heat in the oven and a salad was ready to dress. With wine and bread we had our first dinner all together.
Sun 09 Cloudy, threatening rain. Woke early, so I took a 45 minute walk before breakfast—up the hill to the top. About a mile. Quiet but lots of birds singing. After breakfast Erni in her car led the rest of us in to Cortona (approximately a 45 minute drive.) First we went to the very top of the hill above Torreone to visit the basilica (Santuario Santa Margherita. 12th C. beautifully restored painted ceilings. Santa M’s mummified remains are on display ina special case on the central altar.) Then we went back down to stop outside Frances Mayes’ house (Under the Tuscan Sun). A bus tour had stopped there ahead of us!
Then around the hill to find a parking. Walked up to the main square. Strolled around for a couple of hours. Had lunch on a terrace above the square. Some had pastas, wine. I had panno al pomodoro, which turned out to be basically bread soaked in stewed tomatoes! Of course we had gelatos afterwards.
After a siesta (fare un riposino) back at the Casa we all went in to Mercatale to Mimmi’s Trattoria for dinner. It had been recommended, but was a real disappointment. Only seemed to be tourists there and the quantity of food was ridiculous, but the quality rather low. Separate courses were served: tapenade, wine, melon w/ prosciutto & ham, tortellini, cannelloni, lasagna, cold sliced veal w/ mustard, lamb chunks (knuckles?), sliced pork, lettuce salad (we were hoping the endless array of food was coming to an end, but no--), artichokes, beef pot roast w/ potatoes, strawberries, tiramisu, coffee! Home at 11:00, stuffed!
4 miles
Mon 10 Partially sunny. Drove to Deruta, following directions written out by Lois. Had reservation for a private tour of the Cama family pottery factory. (Italian Majolica ware) Andrea, 3rd generation, good salesman! (They import to Biordi on Columbia in SF). Since they would ship any order regardless of size for a flat rate of 99 € we all ordered pieces to be delivered together to Charm. CAMA stands for Cooperatativa Artigiana Maioliche Artistiche.
Then drove to nearby Torgiano to visit the famous wine and olive oil museums, but they were about to close for lunch when we arrived and would not reopen until 3, so we just went to a restaurant nearby for lunch. Restaurant Siro. Local wine is Lungarotti (family name). The red is Rubesco. Delicious raviolis with nuts and truffle sauce—girasole alla noci. Roberta’s mezza luna had even more truffles!
Drove by back roads over to Assisi to spend the rest of the afternoon. Ray led our caravan home but he took back roads and in the wrong direction! We ended up in a tiny hill town, Bettona, but never found a place to stop to look at the view so wound our way back down and eventually got on the right road to Lisciano Niccone where we ate dinner (8:00) in the little local trattoria/pizzeria. Very good. A local “hangout”. Not back in bed until 10 anyway.
4 miles
Tue 11 Ready to leave by 8:15. 45 minute drive to Gubbio. Met Emilia (local resident and hiking guide) by previous arrangement. The other car got lost, so we were 45 minutes late starting. Emilia was very ebullient and full of history. Her enthusiasm and energy are amazing. We walked up past the Roman Coliseum in through the north gate of the city wall. Then through the Gardens of Matilda the Ungrateful (quite a story) and along the face of the mountain above the city. We passed under the funicular (standing 2-person baskets) and along a steep trail up a gorge to the top. 1000 ft. up. Visited the Basilica of Sant Ubaldo there. He is the patron saint of Gubbio and did Emilia rave about him! His body is still intact in a crystal casket on the altar. He died in the late 1100’s, unembalmed (?). Body still “uncorrupted.” “It’s a miracle!”
Next weekend will be the annual Fest dei Ceri (candles), a 4 day celebration which mobs of people attend. 3 teams (10 men each) carry giant wooden structures with saint replicas on top (the “candles”) and run with them up the mountain. Sant’Ubaldo’s always has to win. Then we walked down the “corso dei ceri” (gravel path) back to town. (took 3 ½ hrs. total walk)
Emilia had arranged a lovely lunch for us all at a former monastery, now a restaurant, Il Campanone, where we were served the specialties of the region. Antipasto platter had bacon wrapped eggplant, a little tart, a thin cold pork slice w/ chopped truffle sauce, a turkey slice with a strawberry sauce, and a ostrich slice served with sliced turnips and red peppers, all on a bed of greens, and toast squares topped with white truffle. Then came the course Emilia was most excited about. We were given pieces of a hot bread, like a focaccio, which we sliced open and filled with a mixture of scrambled eggs and truffles. This all was followed by a thick lentil soup over which you were supposed to break pieces of bread and pour lots of olive oil. Of course also red wine, coffee, and small chocolates. We walked around the town for a couple of hours after that, drove back to Mercatale where we picked up a few groceries, did the internet, then all sat out on the veranda until the sun went down behind the opposite mountain at 8:00. Then we just prepared a big salad for supper, with bread and cheese.
8 miles
Wed 12 All off at 7:30. Threatening rain. Parked both cars at Trecine at the top of the mountain overlooking Lake Trasimeno. Since we had not been given clear instructions to find the trailhead, we walked the entire 4 miles down to the lake and 2 miles along the shore to Passignano all on a 2 lane asphalt road with car and truck traffic. At the ferry dock we had to wait an hour for the next and last boat before lunch (11:05). 45 min. ride to Isola Maggiora with a stop first at Tuoro. Rained off and on. We walked around the island and then all met for lunch at 1:00 at the restaurant Sauro. I had tagliatella w/ tartufa (truffles). Ken had a spaghetti and mushroom dish. The next ferry back to the mainland wasn’t until 3:00. There was a lace museum some visited (the handcraft specialty of the island) but we didn’t see any of it for sale in the shops.
When we got back to shore Ray and Charm decided to walk all the way back up (6 miles) to the cars in spite of the rain. The rest of us did not think this a safe or wise idea in the rain on the pavement with the traffic. Dale called a taxi which, after about ½ hr.) arrived and took Dale and Penny up to the cars. They then came back to get the rest of us. Each time we passed Ray and Charm they refused a ride, so we got in one car and drove back to the Casa. I did a load of laundry and we all made a big pot of vegetable soup and sat around the fireplace with wine before dinner.
7 miles
Thu 13 In the cars at 8:00. Met Emilia outside Umbertide. She then led us to the Abbazia di Monte Corona (or the Badia di San Salvatore.) We visited the crypt which was built in 1008, amazing columns and arches. The upstairs sanctuary was built in 1100. We hiked up to the top of the mountain along the Mattonata, originally a brick path used by the monks on their way to the monastery at the top. Walked through dense woods, wet from earlier rain. The path steep and worn in places. The Monastero now houses only about a dozen monks. (the Eremo di Monte Corona) They do all the work of refurbishing and maintaining it and spend many hours in prayer and meditation. We were greeted by a French monk, Marie Luc (Maria Lucca). They are affiliated with the order of Bethlehem. We bought some preserves and crafts in their little shop. We called him “the smiling monk”.
From there we walked several miles down a gravel road on the other side of the mountain to the Borgo di Santa Giuliana. It had been a medieval citadella from the 1200’s. The ruins of the property were bought for almost nothing in the 1950’s and restored as private residences by English, Dutch, Italians, and Americans—keeping the exteriors authentic and the cobblestone paths all in place. It is charming. Emilia then talked to the guardian (caretaker) whom she had phoned yesterday for permission, and found out that instead of the one hour walk back to our cars it would take 2 hours (9 km.) We started walking. At the top of the hill Ken and I went on “strike”. We needed to stop and rest and eat an orange. The others went on. We said if Ray got to the car he could come back for us. As it turned out, Emilia flagged down the mail delivery lady and convinced her to take Ray back down to his car. (It was another 4 ½ K on a paved road.) He made 2 trips back to shuttle us all down. We were not really very far behind the others.
So we did get to the Ristorante San Salvatore almost by 1:30, where Emilia had arranged a lovely lunch for us. Risotto w/ asparagus and saffron, red wine, mineral waters, a plate of spinach and thin sliced pork w/ tiny tomatoes (pour olive oil on your spinach) and for dessert a Crema Inglese—a custard with fruit on a sponge cake soaked in a cherry liquor dribbled w/ chocolate sauce. Then cappuccinos followed by tiny glasses of limoncello.
We did have time back at the Casa to relax and shower before leaving to visit Pino and Caroline Nobile in their lovely restored Il Molino di Bordone in Montanare di Cortona, about a 20 minute drive away. We had previously hiked and traveled with them twice (Caspin Journeys), once in Tuscany and once in Sicily. They invited all 8 of us for “cocktails” and we were anxious to see the Il Molino. They moved in permanently in 2000 with their 3 children. They also had 3 couples there, guests of their bed and breakfast. We were given a tour of the property—incredible what they have done with landscaping and refurbishing a dilapidated old mill. And then we all had wine and snacks. Such a host and hostess!
Back at the Casa San Martino the rest of the group cooked a vegetable supper at 9:00. Ken and I had a glass of milk, skipped more food and went to our room to read and sleep.
10 miles
Fri 14 Ken drove down to the bakery before breakfast for fresh croissants. At 9 we all drove over to Pierle on the opposite side of the valley, about 3 miles away. Its tall but crumbling castle tower dominates the hillside and is surrounded by small houses where people still live. We walked another mile up the road from there to the next farm house. The group went up a muddy path trying to follow a suggested trail. Ken and I came back to Mercatale, did the internet and bought a panino (sandwich) for lunch. Then drove up the hill past San Martino to the top of the ridge where we took pictures of the ruin I liked.
Late in the afternoon Faye came in to prepare and serve our special final dinner. We had arranged for this in advance. She is American, married to a Brit, lives in Megacini nearby. Trained in NY, catering and restaurant. Now teaches cooking schools and is a professional chef. She served our wine and appetizers on the terrace—olives, bruscetta, cheeses.
Then at the dining room table we had a creamy zucchini soup w/ parmegiano reggiano (the cows must be fed a special grass to make this cheese), white cannelli beans, and a pork loin roast braised in milk and fresh herbs. For dessert she had made a chocolate truffle cake with strawberries and mascarpone, expresso, then limoncello or sambuca. After 10 to bed.
3 ½ miles
Sat 15 Ray, Charm, Roberta and Maria all left at 4 am to return their car in Rome and catch a morning flight to Budapest. We and Penny & Dale had a leisurely breakfast and were off by 9. We decided to drive back by way of Todi. It’s a medieval village on top of a hill, built upon a Roman forum. Young people were pouring in to town for a foot race competition between their schools. We took the funicular from the parking lot up to the old town. Had a light lunch after wandering a bit. Spectacular views in all directions. We wanted to climb the bell tower, but it closed (1:00 to 3:00) just as we got there!
We drove in to Rome following Margaret Coffin’s directions to get to the train station. Turned in the car there, checked our baggage (38 € for just a couple or 3 hours !) and walked a bit. Stopped at a sidewalk café for cappuccino and a beer. Bought sandwiches in the station. Train for Budapest via Vienna left at 8:00. We and the Walwarks each had a sleeper compartment (could have accommodated 3—one above the other!), cramped but comfortable enough. Had our own sink and mirror. The “chamber pot” stored beneath the sink emptied directly to the tracks. We were in the only first class sleeper car on the train. The other 8 cars were all second class seats. Had reserved online through EurRail. Our car’s steward made our beds and brought us our breakfast.