GREECE – April 28 to May 26, 2001
INCLUDING AN ELDERHOSTEL--- “ESSENCE OF THE GREEK ISLANDS”
Connie’s Journal:
CHAPTER 5 – Athens to Marathon
Thurs., May 17: Day of farewells, plus the strike. What will it be like? Two of our group had to leave by 4am to get taxis to the airport for independent flights to other places. Another group was picked up later in an unmarked green car (arranged by IST.) A private bus and driver met the majority of the group at 8:30. We saw them off. Lots of traffic (cars and cycles everywhere) because of neither Metro nor buses. Many must still have to go to work. After a leisurely 2nd cup of coffee in the hotel breakfast room and a chat with the few remaining from our group, we just took off for a meandering walk in the Plaka. Smog is building up. Temp in mid-70’s. We stopped at the Byzantino jewelry shop because of an Internet recommendation. Laura (Italian-born, UCLA educated in Poly Sci and Bus. Mgmt.) is the proprietor. They make original designs, all hand crafted, only in gold. Copies of the items from the excavations. I bought a pair of white gold earrings, which I think will replace my 1950 Taxco, Mexico, heavy silver earrings (I lost one) which match my silver Aztec design heavy bracelet and pin.
Wandered the rest of the morning in the Plaka. All museums were closed because of the strike, but of course not the shops and tavernas. Had souvlaki pita again at the same place we had it 2 weeks ago. Walked closer to Syntagma, heard the marchers, so got a few pics of the demonstration near the square and then quickly got out of the area in case of trouble. Everything seemed peaceful while we were there, but large crowds demonstrating. The issue, apparently, is that, at present, Greeks may retire at age 55 or 60 and receive social security. Now that they are in the EU (European Economic Union) they will be required to work until 65 before becoming eligible, as the standards will be set by the EU to apply the same to all countries. Since Greece is so much poorer economically than the northern Europeans, they feel their government should be able to help them move up more gradually to EU standards and not such a sudden shift. With 45% annual income tax and comparatively low incomes to begin with, life is not easy here. Those approaching age 55 who had expected social security now have to keep working for 10 more years, while their contemporaries who already have reached the magic age are now receiving it. And their pension system is almost bankrupt due to an aging population and government mismanagement.
Afternoon, relaxed in the hotel and did a little laundry. Later we walked up Philopapou Hill for views and photos. This is where many traditional pictures of the Parthenon and Athens in the background are taken. On the side of this hill are former troglodyte cave homes—one believed to be the prison in which Socrates drank hemlock in 399 BC. Afterwards, wandered around the west base of the Acropolis and found the taverna we had read about on the Internet—Psaras. (www.athensguide.com/restau.html) Charming. Outdoor tables on steps above the Plaka and just below the Acropolis and on a tiny square in front of Ag. Ianniss Theo…church. Garlic spread for bread must be feta, olive oil, lots of garlic and dill. I had an ouzo. For mezedes Ken had fried zucchini and I had bourekaki eggplant (delicious—stuffed with cheese and deep fried.) One order of moussaka was enough for both of us. Complimentary baklava and galaktobouriko (best yet.)
Our last day in Athens, took the Metro to the base of Lykabettos Hill. Walked straight up about 25-30 flights on stairs between nice apartments. Crossed 4 or 5 horizontal cross streets. Finally came to the base of the funicular (underground cable car to the top of the hill.) At least we saved walking the uneven switchbacks the last 400 feet. Chapel of St. George at the top and great views, but not clear. A lot of smog. On way down, found the Greek Historical Costume Museum. Very tiny, and specific to only 3 Sporades islands, but interesting. Next used up our internet card at the book store and walked to the main Metro station below Syntagma Square to see the display of archeological items they found there when they dug for the Metro. “The City Beneath the City”—a free museum-quality exhibit.
After sitting in the square and having a snack, we walked to the Agora and to the Museum of Popular Musical Instruments—an exceptional museum. Earphones to hear each type being played in context and by experts. Then stopped next door at the Taverna Platanos for cool drinks under their bougainvillea arbor.
For dinner we used the Internet article again. All recommendations have been good. Walked to Taverna Byzantino (a favorite of the locals) in the Plaka. Sat at a table outside to watch the “passing parade.” Amazing watching the “maitre d’” (hustler) talk to people going by in whatever language they look like they would speak—Americans, Germans, Brits, Italians, Japanese, French. He shows them menus and points to food already on tables. I would guess about one in ten actually stop and eat. We had one spanakopita (plenty to split), garlic puree sauce with the bread, a small bottle of red wine, mineral water, a lamb souvlaki plate and a filet of sole. No room for dessert. $30 included tip. Got a kick out of observing a waiter in blue jeans and black T-shirt at a taverna across the street surreptitiously scratch his balls several times. Avoid that one!
Sat., May 19: Our rental car was waiting for us at Hertz, just a block from our hotel—a little red Hyundai. Managed traffic out of town towards the airport and then turned off on the road to Rafina and Marathon. I’m glad I’ve had some practice now reading signs in Greek. Found the Golden Coast Resort our beach timeshare exchange for the week and—quelle surprise!—it is a Club Med! Opened one month ago, Club Med Athenia. A large complex with a long sandy beach, windsurfing, kayaking, 2 huge taverna/restaurants, 3 pools, lounges, theatre, Mini-Club for children, tennis courts, in-line skate area, and all the activities and games which go along with a Club Med. Of course the GO’s (Gentils Organizateurs) young staff speak French, English, as well as Greek, German, Italian, etc. Each time we wanted to eat the sumptuous buffet dinners we just bought coupons--$15 for an amazing selection with all the wine, beer, etc. and desserts you can eat.
We drove in to the nearest village, Nea Makri, for groceries to stock our small kitchen for breakfasts and some lunches and a dinner or two. Fun shopping in a Greek supermarket! Some things we recognize, either US or European brands. Others are a challenge! Had to read lots of labels in Greek to figure out which words were butter not margarine, and finally found decaffeinated ground coffee. The deli lady was nice. Sold us a few Kalimata olives. She suggested which sausage would go best with our pasta and tomato sauce, and also a ham for Ken to slice for lunch. The milk in boxes I am familiar with—got 1 ½%. And lots of yogurt choices. Of course the produce was the same—just give it to the produce clerk who weighs and generates price stickers. She put 2 or 3 things together in one plastic bag and just slapped 2 or 3 stickers on the outside for the checkout clerk to scan. Fruit juices and jam we could identify by the pictures.
After the groceries were put away in our condo, we went for a swim at the beach (the Aegean Sea) facing directly east. Mild temp, clear water, very refreshing. No one there. The huge Club Med buffet was super. Probably 10 salads, 3 or 4 fish courses, 2 or 3 roasts, chicken, stir-fry, pasta, pizza, Greek eggplant, stuffed tomatoes, all sorts of breads, bowls of fruit, barrels of red, white, or rosé wine w/ spigots (just take a carafe and pour what you want), a cheese board, many desserts. We had the chocolate mousse cake and the coffee mousse cake. Went to bed relaxed and happy. Skipped the Club Med “Spectacle” (show) at 10:00.
Most days of our week here were spent swimming, sitting on the beach or by one of the big pools, reading, editing the digital pictures in my camera (almost 500 now), reviewing Ken’s videos, and walking along the beachwalk that runs several miles in either direction. It passes in front of some very nice homes that must belong to Athenians who come here on weekends. The temperatures stayed mild all week—maybe mid 70’s, and several days were pretty breezy, with one or two completely cloudy.
On short drives, we went North along the coast on the plain of Marathon, where the famous battle occurred in 499 BC. 7 or 8,000 Athenian citizens fought 20,000 Persians who had come by sea, and defeated them, with less than 200 of their own dead. A fierce and devoted bunch of men. They then sent a runner from there to Athens to tell them not to burn down their city prior to the Persian takeover. The distance is 26 miles and the runner dropped dead of exhaustion after delivering his victorious message. Celebration of this event is the origin of the “Marathon” race.
We also drove further along the bay to Shineás, another fishing village/beach resort. Views back down the bay to our resort. Nea Makri is the town just a mile to the south of Club Med. Originally a small fishing village, still has an attractive harbor, many tourists, and a number of fish tavernas on the water. The rest of the town is fairly large—spreads way back up into the hills, with some rather expensive new homes. While shopping there we found an Internet café for our usual communications. Also found a purse/bag shop where we bought a soft case (all of $11) to add to our checked luggage going home. We have bought Club Med beach towels, and a few extra souvenirs can also be put in it.
One afternoon we played Bingo on the Terrace. Met John and Sandy from Georgia, whom we had met the first night at dinner. They, too, are timesharing. The Club Med Bingo cards had 3 rows across with 5 numbers on each. The “Chef du Village” and his assistant ran the game, with lots of jokes and horseplay—of course all in French. I thought it would be good practice for me to review my numbers in French, but when they found out we were Americans they translated. Darn! They also asked crazy questions and ended up giving away quite a few coupons for an ouzo or a coffee at the bar. (Why was the Eiffel Tower built to the height it is? Something about the number of steps being the same as the year of the Revolution. Why do men’s shirts button one way and women’s the other? Something about how nobility were dressed by a valet and it was easier. Also, apparently, men’s shirts used to button in back. Where is the tallest mountain on the face of the earth? Ken answered that one. Hawaii. From the top of the mountain to the bottom of the sea.) First person to get one line across (me) won an ouzo, then they kept on playing until someone filled 2 lines. Finally trying for all 3 lines, we were to call out “bingo moins un” when only one space was left (to keep up the excitement). I did, but someone else filled their card first. They got the “pot” of the day. Later we met John and Sandy for our ouzos before dinner (John had won, too.)
We did go to the “Spectacle” that night. It was all in French but mostly pantomime and lively with lots of crazy humor. One fellow’s act was all about demonstrating condoms “for yoor seecureetay plees!” He put it over his head, covering everything but his mouth, and, while chattering away, exhaled through his nose to inflate it like a huge balloon on top of his head. A really silly sight!
On Wednesday we joined a Club Med all-day outing by bus to Delphi. Left at 7:30. Two other English speaking couples in the group of 48—John and Sandy, and a charming couple from India, Paul and Anita. A Club Med GO did a little translating for us, but the professional guide spoke slowly and distinctly in French and even Ken could understand a bit. One stop in Livadia for coffee and to “faire le pipi.” 2 ½ hour drive each way. Scenic, up through steep hills, through the ski village of Arahova which looked like an alpine village, on the vertical slopes of Mt. Parnassus. On the Archeological site at the Sanctuary of Delphi, we walked up the Sacred Way, past the omphalos ( sculpture representing the belly button of the earth—supposedly here!), past the rock where the Oracle sat, to the Temple of Apollo and on up to the Theatre (all from the 4th C. BC. Then on up to the Stadium, which can hold 6,500 people (300 BC).
Afterwards, we went through the museum there displaying articles found here. The bus then took us to the small town of Delphi where we had lunch of the terrace of a taverna. Had time to wander through the village, for those who wanted to shop. The whole town is almost vertical. Spectacular views down the valley, over a sea of olive trees, all the way to the Ionian Sea. On the way out, we stopped briefly at the Thólos with its circular shrine to the earth goddess. Got back to the resort at 7:30.
The buffet that night was all Greek and was it good! Salads, eggplant, tsadziki, octopus, moussaka, spanakopita, cheese pie, stuffed eggplant, charcoal grilled lamb brochettes, do-it-yourself souvlaki pita, of course the usual pastas, pizza, fish, potatoes, roasts for those not inclined to try new things. Wine of course, 3 desserts—halva, galaktobouriko, and syrapito. Yogurts, fruits, cheeses. Went to a lesson in Greek line dancing by the pool before going to the evening show.
Another day we drove to the tiny Marathon Archeological Museum. Small, but well presented. The finds are from a cave nearby date from as far back as 4,000 BC. Later pieces found near here from the Classical period. Then one room devoted to the famous Battle of Marathon. We also visited the barrow mound where the dead soldiers from the battle are all buried.
On our final night there we took Sandy and John in our car to Nea Makri to eat at a fish taverna, Trata.
ΤΡΑΤΑ ΨΑΡΟΤΑΒΕΡΝΑ = Trata Psaro(fish)taverna
The owner took us back in to the kitchen and discussed what he would fix for us! Ken wanted a lobster, and the rest of us chose a whole fresh fish, which he promised we’d like or we would not have to pay for it. He also created a special salad—huge, even had cooked spinach in it, and the platter of potatoes he fried were the best we’ve had yet. A small carafe of white wine. The fruit platter included cherries, plump honeyed raisins, melon, apple. Then halva and a complimentary glass of Metaxa (brandy), since none of us wanted coffee. The owner even went to the garden (we were eating on the terrace) and picked a tiny bunch of flowers to present to each of us ladies. The meal cost less than US$50 a couple.
In questioning the timeshare “concierge”, he told us that Club Med has been in negotiations 12 years to get this property. They finally reached an agreement with RCI that, if they bought, they would maintain 85 timeshare units. Club Med moved in a month ago. This is the only Club Med in the world which also shares a facility with time sharers. This location is ideal for a family club because it is all level, with a nice beach, and so many amenities. They are busily completing a new 4-building complex for the Mini-Club, children from infants to teens. They even seem to have strollers, cribs, and playpens for the members’ use. We have enjoyed observing many young French families and cute children. There are many older French as well. A nice mix at a resort, and the GO’s certainly keep the kids busy, so parents can enjoy, too.
We decided to spend all our remaining Greek Drachmas as our early am departure from the aiport would not provided us any other place to spend them, so we bought a few small items from the resort boutique, and left the balance for the maid.
Sat., May 26: Had to wake up at 4:15 am! (I had gone to the 10:00 show the night before.) We were on the road in the dark before 5. Surprise! There is toll section of freeway approaching the airport. They would only take Drachmas. We had to pull over and sign a paper to give to Hertz so they would pay for us later. Then at the airport no one was in the Hertz parking lot. Ken just left the car after he dropped me off with the luggage. He then had to walk to the Hertz desk in the terminal (“always someone there 24 hours”). No one. After a while he left a note on their desk with the keys, the space number where he had parked the car, and a US$1 for the toll. 7:00 am our SwissAir flight took off for Zurich.
On our 10:20 am departure from Zurich I did my now-usual transatlantic routine—took a melatonin and a couple of Sominex, covered up, and went to sleep. Even though the plane didn’t leave the ground for another hour (last minute repair) I just relaxed and skipped the meal when it was served. After about 6 hours of dozing I felt fine, was ready for lunch and arrived in DFW at 2pm. From there until we arrived in OAK at 6pm it felt like a normal afternoon and we were not overly tired. Took another melatonin and Sominex at bedtime and woke up the next day in our own bed feeling great!