(6,870 ft.) the lovely turquoise of Peyto Lake gleamed in the sun.
This is a good time to put an end to this journal. Alaska and the Canadian Rockies were a wonderful experience. Be forewarned! I'm bringing home lots of pictures!
We'll stay in touch by e-mail as we head south through Washington and Oregon.
Connie@doty.orgThe mechanic in Banff checked the air shock and it seems to be holding! So he said go on our way. We both woke up this morning feeling like getting on our way home. More time in Banff, or going on a horseback trail ride just sounded like something we could do in Calif.
We crossed the Continental Divide for the last time, this time going west. Then south through Radium Hot Springs. Had a nice picnic lunch overlooking Columbia Lake, supposedly the headwater of the Columbia River. At the U.S. border there was a duty free shop where we spent or exchanged our remaining Canadian money. Then on down through the panhandle of Idaho to Lake Coeur d'Alene. A long drive (340 miles), but no scenery to match what we have been immersed in for so long.
It is still summer here. Boats on the lake, temperature in the 80's. This has been an interesting journey through the seasons!
A spectacular day in Lake Louise! Definitely one to get out and hike. 70 degrees and not a cloud!
However, one small glitch. The air ride shock on one side of the motorhome has deflated. We had to deflate the other one to equalize and now we are riding on just the springs. I'll bet this happened on our "wild ride" a couple of days ago! The mechanic here does not have a part. We had wanted to see Moraine Lake and the Valley of the Ten Peaks this morning, but it is a rough road , and anyway there is a grizzly alert there. There is a bear who lives around the lake who has become habituated to humans and is a potential danger. Only groups of 6 or more together may hike there.
So--not too bad an alternative: We parked at Lake Louise (amid all the buses of Japanese tourists) and hiked up to Lake Agnes and the "teahouse" overlooking Lake Louise. About 2 miles each way and 1300 ft. up. Many folks on the trail were Europeans. Had some interesting conversations. Ate lunch with a group from Cologne, Germany. Their English was about as good as my German, but they were friendly. Even gave me a moist fragrance packet of "Eau de Cologne" made in Cologne!
We heard a couple of hikers' Bear Bells jingling as they passed. That reminded me of the story we heard in Alaska. How do you tell the difference on the trail between moose droppings and bear droppings? The bear's has lots of tiny bells in it! Actually the rcommendation is just to be alert, talk loudly if you go through an area where a bear could be foraging.
At the teahous of course we had tea. Chose wild strawberry--delicious! Ken also had soup and strudel. (I helped.) Ken had one of the Clark's Nutcrackers come eat out his hand. The view from there was across Agnes Lake to the snowfields one way and back the other way down to Lake Louise. It felt good to be on a trail again. We've done a lot of sitting, but we have enjoyed every place we've been.
Mid-afternoon we drove on to Banff to search out a mechanic who might be able to help us. He tightened something and we'll know in the morning. He'll put it up on the rack then if necessary and analyze further.
This is only the second evening on the whole trip that we've been warm enough to eat dinner outdoors. Very nice under the pines and poplars. No sign of fall here at all yet.
Being here has brought back some funny memories. Kip, do you remember 24 years ago when we were here and went for a swim in the hot springs at the hotel? They made you put on a bathing cap because your hair was shoulder length then. And while we were in the pool several people asked me what all the metal in your mouth was. They had never seen orthodonture before. (1975)
Friday we drove 6+ hours from Dawson Creek to Prince George. Nothing especially memorable. We will end up in Jasper tomorrow, but there is no straight route through BC. Crossed the Canadian Rockies again, then south. Prince George looks like a nice town. Formerly Fort George, one of the first trading posts on the Fraser River.
Yesterday we had a bit of excitement. And the Doty luck held out as usual! An hour out of Prince George in the morning, heading east through woods and mountains, we suddenly came upon a large double trailer/tractor rig upside down, completely across the road, with about 200 or 300 yards of highway covered with the large sheets of fibreboard which had unfurled off the trailers as they swung around the turn and rolled over. The tractor was on its side, but the driver seemed OK except for cuts on his head. It had apparently had happened only 5 minutes before. Someone had radioed for an ambulance, but heavens knows how long it would take to open the highway. If the necessary equipment had to come from Prince George, on a Saturday morning, we would probably have had to wait there most of the day. But Ken heard a man in a pickup say he knew the area and there was a dirt road around the mountain which would get us back on the highway. 4 of us swung around as he was leaving, and it was like Mr. Toad's Wild Ride as we followed him (or rather his dust) for 33 miles! But how lucky we felt!
So we continued east, up over the Continental Divide near Mr. Robson, the highest mountain in the Canadian Rockies and into Jasper. We stayed in the same campground that we stayed in in 1975, the Whistlers. No hookups, just in the woods at the base of the mountain. Lovely. (Kip, do you remember staying here? You boys got excited as a coyote walked right through our campsite. And maybe you also remember driving right up beside the Athabasca Glacier.)
This morning (Sunday) we woke up to temp. of 31, and sunny. We spent the
day driving down the Icefields Parkway (the road connecting Jasper and Lake
Louise)--about 150 miles. This was a day to use a lot of film! They say
this road goes by more glaciers than any other place in the world. We took a
number of short walks to waterfalls and view points. From the Bow Summit
(6,870 ft.) the lovely turquoise of Peyto Lake gleamed in the sun.
We have signed into the Lake Louise campground, and checked out several walks we'd like to take on Monday. Hope this beautiful weather holds.
Today was 6 more hours of driving due south. The land has flattened out. Not so interesting. Feels more like the mid-west. I keep Ken entertained by reading out loud excerpts from the "Cooking Alaskan" book which Barby gave us. Recipes for such things as Jellied Moose Nose, Fried Beaver Tails, Muskrat Chili, and Dandelion Fritters. Actually it has a lot of great information in it, too. It will be fun to share when we get home.
Dawson Creek, where we are now, is the official mile 0 of the AlCan Highway. Took a picture in the center of town to prove it. Ken got his blood test at the clinic here and it was good! 32,000. So now we can go another week before checking again. He was so relieved that he would not need another treatment that we bought a steak to BBQ tonight to celebrate! Of course, he also found a bakery with delicious pastries, so we added some to the freezer. Needless to say, we cannot continue like this when we get home.
Had to do another car wash when we got back to the RV park. The motorhome looked as dirty as it did yesterday before we washed it. There was lots of construction on the road. Ah, well.
Over 8 hours of driving today between Watson Lake and Fort Nelson, B. C., the only 2 towns on this stretch of the Alaska Highway. More than we had planned to do in any one day, but Ken should get another blood test done on Thurs. and Dawson Creek is still almost 300 miles ahead.
The road is not boring. Constantly changing vistas of rivers, interesting mountains, forests, fall foliage. We chose Muncho Lake for our Lunch-o stop. There we saw Stone sheep close up (a sub-species of the pure white Dall sheep, but grey and indiginous to this area. We crossed the continental divide on the northernmost part of the Rocky Mountains. A young caribou stopped in the road in front of us.
At the RV park we washed the motorhome (after a lot of road construction), and I started a loaf of bread in the bread machine while Ken washed all the windows to perfection! Then I put a batch of brownies in the convection oven and prepared a be ef-rigatoni pasta and salad for dinner. Not too shabby a life!
A cool, sunny morning. Left Whitehorse 7:30 am. Continuing south UP the Yukon River system. It seems odd to be following a river south UP to its source, we are so accustomed to the north/south up/down orientation of the map. Then we turned east, crossing in and out of northern British Columbia and over the Continental Divide. All water behind us flows to the Bering Sea (Pacific) and all to the east flows into the Arctic via the MacKenzie River.
This Alaska Highway was built during World War II (then called the AlCan) by the US military, with Canada's cooperation. It is now well maintained, considering how remote it is. The guide book's description says it "winds and rolls through the wilderness." Very apt. Yesterday a young black wolf crossed the road directly in front of us. Today a young moose (no antlers) crossed.
We arrived in Watson Lake shortly after lunch. First went to the garage where they serviced and lubed the RV, then we visited the Northern Lights Centre where they have a planetarium-type multi-media show about the Aurora and present space research. It's been interesting to see pictures of the Auroras (both northern and southern--occur simultaniously) taken from space. And the research is important as it affects the electrical grid supply systems of large areas in the north.
Saw the Signpost Forest. People have contirbuted over 42,000 from all over the world, arranged on posts. Then toured the Alaska Highway Interpretive Centre and saw a film on the history of the Yukon and the building of the Highway. After driving it, we are truly impressed.
Tomorrow we'll have a long drive to Fort Nelson in B.C.
We are now in Whitehorse, the Yukon. I did get up last night and stepped outside (in Dawson City) at 3:15 am and saw another beautiful aurora, directly overhead, from horizon to horizon. Also heard a wolf howling in the distance.
It was frosty this morning. We drove all day south (7 1/2 hours) to here. Only one community along the way (pop. 300). It's nice to be self contained. The highway was good 2 lane, not much traffic. Just continuous rolling hills, forested and with lots of fall color. Not boring at all.
Another amazingly beautiful 2 days! Blue skies and puffy clouds. The drive from Valdez to Tok was scenic every mile of the way. Ken didn't take many pictures, but was willing to stop a lot for me to use my camera. We'll have to wait for my slides to see.
Last night in Tok was clear and cold. All the birch trees have turned yellow since we were here last month. We ate at Fast Freddie's again; we had liked it so much before. This time we ordered their smallest "Mt.McKinley" pizza and took home enough for a second dinner!
Woke up this morning to 34 degrees. Fall is here! The down comforter and the propane floor heater in the RV are wonderful! We were off before 8:00 as we had been told that the drive to Dawson City over the Taylor Highway route would take at least 6 hours. 95 miles of it are unpaved, but what scenery! The only community along the way is Chicken. This was a mining camp (still gold here). The miners hunted lots of ptarmigan for food but commonly called it chicken. When they named their camp no one could spell ptarmigan, so it became Chicken Camp. Population is now 37, with their own post office. "Downtown" consists on one ramshackle building, housing a shop, saloon and cafe where we bought yummie pastries.
From there the road becomes the "top of the world" highway, crossing the border into the Yukon, Canada, winding along ridges covered with nothing but the bright red of the dwarf birch (low brush) and brilliant scarlet bear berry and blueberry bushes, all above the tree line. What a perfect day to get to see it like this!
After our lunch stop we re-named this highway the Salsa Highway. When we opened the refrigerator we discovered that the jar of chunky garlic salsa on the top shelf have bounced over, the lid came off, and all the contents were well distributed over everything!
Then the road dropped down to the Yukon River where we had to cross by ferry to Dawson City on the other side. We just missed watching the Great Yukon International Outhouse Race by an hour. They were already disassembled by the time we got there. Spent several hours exploring this historic little town. This is where the Klondike river flows into the Yukon, and was the center of the gold rush of the late 1890's. It has no paved roads (nor was the highway we had been on all day), and the sidewalks are all wooden boardwalks. Fun! Tonight we have tickets to go to the Palace Grand Theatre to see the Gaslight Follies. We are now only 165 miles from the Arctic Circle again. Lots of daylight, but chilly. Hope to see the Aurora Borealis tonight. The clear cold weatherwith no moon is best.
Whew! I knew the seasons changed fast up here, but overnight? Ever since we arrived in Alaska 4 weeks ago the days have been shortening by about 6 min. each day. So now we have 3 hours less daylight than when we got here. The evenings and mornings seem more "normal" to us Californians now. Today we drove east along the Matanuska River and the Matanuska Glacier, and the alders and birches have turned gold seemingly overnight. We only noticed a few yellow leaves a day or so ago. It rained pretty much all day as we headed to Glenallen and then turned south to Valdez. We got a few glimpses of the beautiful glaciers and snowy tops of the Chugach Mountains through the clouds, and had to drive through a bit of road construction in a sea of mud and a minefield of potholes, but for the most part the highways have been great. On the route south to Valdez the road parallels the Alaska Pipeline, carrying oil 800 miles from the Arctic Ocean to the port of Valdez.
They say the drive to Valdez is like Switzerland. I would be inclined to describe it more like Norway, from our experiences. We did pass lots of glaciers, up in the clouds, and waterfalls pouring down the mountains everywhere.
In Valdez we tried to find a bit of fresh fish for dinner, but the fishermen in the small boat harbor are not allowed to sell from the dock. They can only take it to the cannery or freezer company, who do not sell retail. Ah well, hamburgers for dinner tonight!
We're keeping our fingers crossed for a break in the clouds and rain tomorrow as we retrace our route north and head on further north to Tok and then to Dawson City. That's the only way to get on the AlCan Highway go go south!
Another early Fall day in Alaska. It has rained lightly most of the day, temp. 48-50 degrees, but it keeps no one indoors, including us. We visited Ken's niece Barby's clinic in Wasilla this morning so Ken could have a follow-up blood test (25,000 so OK for another week now) and had a nice visit with Barby. She didn't have patients until 11:30, so we drove her and her children Jesse and Connor over to her husband's John's building site. He wanted a chance to see our motorhome. He had planned to pave the parking lot of the new clinic today. Weather report was clear, but this is Alaska weather. Some nights it has rained hard all night and then we have awakened to sunshine. Again by noon more clouds may come in. Ken has been watching the barometer on his Avoset wristwatch, and several weather fronts may sweep through here in a day. Sometimes he announces to me that we are now 90 feet below sea level and a little later it says we are 300 feet above!
After lunch we went to the Alaska State Fair in Palmer. I was thinking of the folks in California who go to the State Fair in Sacramento and expect 90 to 100 degree weather. Here everyone is out and enjoying themselves in their parkas and rain gear and the mountains around have a touch on snow on them. We enjoyed the agricultural exhibits--gigantic cabbages, 70 lb rutabagas, a great assortment of animals and flowers. We watched a performance of the Chinese Acrobats (in Alaska?) and watched the pig races! Back to the RV park where I put a batch of bread in the bread machine and a batch of brownies in the convection oven. This is roughing it?
By now we've had a chance to become pretty well acquainted with Anchorage . Yesterday morning Ken's blood test indicated that he needed another IV treatment. The doc here conferred with our hematologist in Berkeley, and they agreed that we should just continue the trip and check occasionally. Ken feels perfectly normal, plenty of energy and enthusiasm, so it's hard to believe his platelet count can be so low. No bleeding problems. Hope the doc will start a new therapy when we get home. Couldn't do it earlier as it requires constant monitoring. We spent all afternoon in the chemo unit after they finally got the insurance authorization. (Amazing--each of these intravenous gamma globulin transfusions costs $10,000 and takes 4-8 hours.) They only had enough serum for half, so we had to return this afternnon for another 4 hours, after the medicine was FedEx'ed from somewhere in the lower 48.
Last evening we went to the "Fly-by-Night Club" for dinner and the comedy show. It is a funky, Alaskan performance. Very original. A spoof on everything Alaskan, especially the tourists. Clever original lyrics, a bit off-color but funny. Nothing was considered sacred--from the "houseguests from hell" to the moose turd jewelry necklaces! I decided I'd better try an Alaskan brew (hadn't had one so far). Had a Midnight Sun Fireweed Honey, a light wheat beer. I enjoyed it.
This morning we spent a couple of hours seeing "downtown". (The medicine had not arrived yet.) The Tourist Information office suggested we visit the State Land Management Building across the street. Very worthwhile exhibits, lots of natural history displays, and just as we entered they started showing a film called "A Gathering of Bears" about the viewing camp in the sanctuary south of here where the bears congregate each summer after hibernation to feed on the salmon in the McNeal Falls and river. A naturalist runs a very controlled "no-interaction" camp where the bears have become accustomed to the predictable presence of a small group of humans watching and filming them. The pictures they showed are amazing. Since many of the same bears return year after year they have been able to observe individual personalities and fishing techniques.
Then we drove out to Earthquake Park where we fixed a bite of lunch while waiting for the word from the nurse that the serum had arrived. Making good use of the cell phone, still. The 1964 earthquake was a terrible event for this area. On Good Friday evening it struck at 9.2 Richter! --the largest earthquake ever recorded in North America. A huge neighborhood on the sound simply dropped 50 or 60 feet. Since the tidal variation here is 35 feet anyway, a lot of the shore of the Cook Inlet is deep silt. We also saw and heard about the effects of this earthquake in Seward. The docks disintegrated, boats flipped upside down, and for 5 or 6 hours afterwards they were hit by 40 foot tidal waves! Many coastal towns were totally demolished, the fishing industry destroyed. But they have rebuilt, not always on the same spot, and recovered--that is, until the Exxon oil spill 10 years ago. Hopefully, now, there are more controls in place to prevent a repeat of that, but we are still sitting on a geologically active part of the globe.
This afternoon, back in the hospital, with time to type notes on the computer.
We drove into Anchorage this morning. Stopped at Sagaya's (Fish whlsl. and retail--fresh and frozen. Recommended by several locals as the best place to order later for shipping.) Got their lists and phone number, and bought a beautiful piece of halibut for dinner tonight.
Arrived at the Alaska Native Heritage Center about 11:00. It is a newly opened cultural park on 26 acres with native village settings, live demonstrations, native craft people, with a native storyteller performance 4 times a day and dance performances by a traditional group. We sat in on a storytelling session, went out to the RV and ate lunch (crab sandwiches!), then returned for another storytelling, watched the craft making, walked through the model villages of 5 different regional and linguistic groups of natives, and saw a dance performance by the King Island Dancers. King Island is only 1 mi. by 2 mi., and is out in the Bering Sea west of Nome and close to Russia. The government relocated the inhabitants to the mainland, mostly Anchorage, in the 1960's. To preserve their native traditions they formed a family group of dancers (4 or 5 generations are now involved) to dance for their own satisfaction and to pass along the tradition to their children. All ages participate in the dances. When they lived on the island in the winter it was possible to walk over to Russia, where they had friends. Now they return each summer so the men can hunt seal while the women gather sour dock leaves and preserve them in seal oil.
We're enjoying learning as much as we can about the variety of native cultures. Barby gave us several interesting books which we will share with you when we get home. Tonight we are preparing the halibut for the BBQ. Tomorrow we'll check with the doctor.
The Doty "luck" for special weather when traveling has held again! The past 2 days have been bright and sunny--today, shirtsleeves all day. Considering that 50 degrees and cloudy or rainy is more normal here this time of year, we are really enjoying this. We've had plenty of the other, too.
Saturday we drove around the Homer area a bit, and up on the hill above town for spectacular views of the spit, Katchemak Bay, and Kenai mountains beyond. Spent the afternoon on the 5 mi. long spit, walking, watching the salmon fishermen on shore, and then watching the sport fishing boats bring back their catch of Halibut. One man had a 70 lb. one. Found a crab boat and bought a live one. Dashed back to the RV, put on a pot of water, and had it cooked and chilled in half and hour. We had to do it then because we caught the "Danny J" at 4:45 for the hour ride across the bay to Halibut Cove for supper.
The cove is a beautiful spot, mainly an artist colony now, with one seafood specialty restaurant and a couple of B&B's--all only accessible by boat. Ate dinner and walked the whole island we were on. The boat left again for Homer at 9:00 (about 25 passengers--locals and dinner guests who had reserved ahead) and we enjoyed the sunset during the entire crossing. Twilights and dawns last a long time up here.
Today we have stopped on the Kenai River (a beautiful glacial aqua) at an RV park in connection with the Kenai Princess Lodge. (Owned by the cruise company. They bus folks up here from the boats.) We can use all the amenities of the Lodge (restaurant, bar, hot tubs, computer hookups, etc., but we pay $18 a day and the lodge guests probably pay hundreds! Tonight we will enjoy our fresh cracked crab, garlic sourdough bread, salad, and the brownies I made yesterday. Then we'll sleep in our own bed under our down comforters and feel like the richest folk in Alaska!
Back to Anchorage tomorrow.
Last night we barbecued fresh salmon and ate outside for the first time on this trip. No breeze, sun reflected on the water. Today we decided to move on down to Homer. Driving south we passed the westernmost point of North America with access by continuous highway. Looking to the west across the inlet we could see through the clouds the snow covered Mt. Iliamna and Mt. Redoubt--still classed as active volcanoes. Over 10, 000 ft. high, rising right out of the ocean. They are the beginning of the Aleutian mountain chain running west for almost 1,700 miles. Homer is a fishing and artists village on the southern tip of a peninsula. Across the bay to the east are the mountains and glaciers of the Kenai Fjords National Park. We're seeing it from all angles. Tomorrow evening we will take a small fishing boat ferry across Kachemak Bay to Halibut Cove for a seafood dinner. This was recommended by Barby as a fun trip. Since this RV park only opens their phone modem from 6-7pm each evening, I'm going to check e-mail now and then won't get on line again for 2-3 days. Oops, no luck. They decided to close the office at 6. No one around. This is typical of out-of-the-way Alaska now. The fishing season has slowed down, tourists have mostly left, and as Sept. comes closer all the business are pretty casual, many selling off items at 30-50% discount. It's nice, though, to be here in a quiet time. After a hard rain all afternoon it has cleared completely. Ken made a salmon frittata for supper and we had a lovely walk on the beach. Must be 60 degrees and clear blue sky at 9:00 pm. Will try to convince them to let me on line in the morning.
This morning we went to the public library in Seward (closed) to try to send out e-mail. Then the hotel. Used their phone, but AOL kept closing down before the 7 pictures were finished uploading. I decided to detach 4 of the pics and send them with this message. We'll see if 2 shorter shots will work. Each pic takes 1 min. to upload.
Spent a couple of hours in the Alaska Sea Life Center, a beautifuly new, but smaller version of the Monterey aquarium. Their main purpose is research and rehabilitation, but they are also doing a good job of public education. Quite interesting. In the underwater tanks we saw the tufted puffins dive and swim for food. From that perspective they look like they are flying gracefully and stay down a long time. In the air they are really funny klutzes! Flap like mad and do miserable landings! And with a face like a toucan they are real clowns.
Then we drove to the Exit Glacier, an arm of the huge Harding Icefield that covers the top of the Kenai Peninsula. Walked up to the blue ice. Most impressive.
Now we are in the town of Kenai, on the west (opposite) side of the Kenai Peninsula from Seward. Motorhome is on the edge of a bluff overlooking the Cook Inlet. Flat expanse of water as far as one can see. Looks like the ocean to me. We're anticipating a beautiful sunset (probably not until 10 pm). We'll probably spend 2 or 3 days here. Lovely spot and the RV park has individual phone hookups as well as TV. Very sunny right now. And we haven't seen much of that.
The hospital didn't release Dad from his treatment until 2:00 am Tues! Then just slept, did a little "housekeeping" (still in the staff parking lot) until noon when the doc wanted another blood test. Called in later in the afternoon on the way to Seward for the report and recommendation. Count up from 8,000 to 21,000. Will need another test in a week.
Ate lunch on Beluga Point, on the Turnagain Arm of the Cook Inlet, watching the beluga whales cavorting on the incoming tide. This spot has the highest bore tides after the Bay of Fundy in Nova Scotia. The mud flats suddenly turned into rolling water. The Belugas like the shallows, where they are safe from the Orcas. They are a beautiful shiny silvery white in the sun as they breach.
Bill and Edith were still at the campground in Seward. Bill had caught a cold on their fjord tour, so took a night of soup and rest. This morning we had a "final" meal together--wheat cakes and Alaskan Birch syrup. I'm bringing some home for you all to try.
Burchells drove us anound the town (1 mile in each direction) and left us at the boat dock. Got the 11:00 boat. I'm sure glad Edith warned us to take wool caps, mittens, wear good layers, etc. We went all the way out to the Gulf of Alaska, stopping a islands along the way to see a colony of Stellar Sea Lions, another island where all the young pups were. One island was a rookery for tufted puffins. Lots of black-legged kittiwakes also nesting there, and saw several horned puffins (white breasts) on nests also. Dalls porpoises frolicked for a while in our bow wake. Left the Kenai Fjords National Park area, went around the Chiswell Islands, and back into the Aialik Fjord. The captain decided that since we had had good weather and good sightings, and since we were on the fastest boat of their fleet (the Glacier Explorer), that we would take extra time not on the itinerary to go up the Granite Island Passage where there had been reports of humpback recently. There he (or she) was! We stopped the boat for about 1/2 hour and just watched. It would rise and blow 10-13 times, then arch its back and up would come the beautiful tail to dive. After staying down 9- 11 minutes the performance would be repeated. Ken got some great video, once very close to our boat.
Then on past the Holgate and Pederson Glaciers to the Aialik Glacier, at the head of the fjord. Massive, we were able to get up quite close. Seals napping on the floating ice. Rumbles and cracking. Frequent small "calvings". We waited again for about 1/2 hour with the motor off, watching and waiting for a big slab that looked ready, but no luck. Several ice falls were big enough to raise quite a wave though. Didn't seem to phase the seals.
On our return to the harbor (a 6-hour cruise w/lunch--halibut & chips or "puffin that tastes a lot like chicken"--we had halibut) there was a sea otter floating on his back enjoying a mussel. Began to rain as we walked the mile back to the RV. Don't know whether I'll find a phone jack in this town.
Well, I must say this has been a "different" day!
We enjoyed the lovely RV park last night on the outskirts of Anchorage: took advantage of the AOL local phone number to see our website for the first time and catch up wilth our entries. Curtis even came on line while we were on--so we had a short "Instant message" conversation with him. Amazing! Have a nice time at Twain Harte, Curt (and Paul, too, if you are also going.)
This morning Ken and I both had an appointment with a hemotologist here at the Alaska Regional Hospital ( a beautiful, big, modern operation). This was ordered by our doc at home to monitor both of us. After all the necessary paperwork and blood tests analyzed, it was necessary to see the doc here. Her only available time was 2:00, so we took a good walk (to a local mall!), had lunch in the RV, then saw her. The outcome was that all I need to do is increase the dosage of my med, but Ken's blood platelets had dropped so extremely low (8,000) that he needed a treatment. The hospital fortunately had a supply of gamma globulin, so he was admitted to a room and the pharmacy started the preparation of the IV. I've been resting and reading in the RV. Went back in at 6:00 and they were just starting the 4 hour drip!
So--here I am back in the RV with a glass of wine, typing. I've called the RV park and cancelled our reservation there tonight. We'll stay here in the staff parking lot. Have to see the doc for further test and orders at 9 am tomorrow.
I've called Seward and cancelled our 2 spaces on the boat tour of the Kenai Fjords and talked to Bill on his cell phone. So much for our final dinner together that we had planned for tonight. Probably won't see them again this trip as they now have to rush back home. Too bad, we've had fun and looked forward to exploring the Kenai Peninsula with them.
George, you will be glad to know how much we have appreciated the antennas for the cell phone. It has been most handy calling ahead occationally for reservations. Today is the first time we've used it to contact the Burchells, but there would have been no other way. We even needed it to find Barby and have her come lead us to her house. Dad really hasn't used the CB or the HAM yet. Neither the need nor time to read the books.
We are grateful not to have any schedule from here on out. There are things in the Anchorage area we want to see, maybe even the State Fair back in Palmer next week, and we'll explore the Kenai for a few days on our own. Will probably do a boat trip then.
This morning after I wrote you we went to the Iditerod Race Headquarters Museum. Saw a lovely video about the dogs which I bought. I think Curt and Nic will particularly enjoy it. Paul and Jeanne, too. They are amazing animals. Bill and Edith are really getting "up" for a return visit here next March.
We said goodbye to them then until tomorrow night when we meet again in Seward. They are feeling pressed for time and need to start home immediately after we all take a Kenai Fjords Boat Tour on Tues. Today they are going to Soldatna and see Seward tomorrow.
We are beginning to relax, and will have plenty of time to explore this area more after we come back from the Kenai area. Will also spend some more leisure time down there. Barby has given us lots of ideas. Burchells plan to "do" Anchorage in the Spring.
A little more relaxed pace will be nice. We have been trying to keep on a schedule up until now. Think I'll read the Sunday paper and take a nap right now!
Yesterday afternoon in Wasilla. Barby met us, drove us to her new clinic, John is building. Will move in in 2 weeks. It will be quite a regional medical center. Really lovely, on a lake.
Had dinner at their home. Really a great Alaska setting, also on a lake. His own plane in driveway. Neighbors' float planes on the lake. Two other couples dropped in. Barby cooks for "relaxation", in between medical phone calls, keeping up with Jesse (9) and Connor(6) and 2 young adult step children. They barbecued moose and caribou. We had a real Alaska feast. Neighbor flew in while we were eating and unloaded a fresh moose to his truck! The meat is surprisingly tasty, not at all gamey, and really tender.
This morning Barby came by the RV while we were eating breakfast. Brought us a paper, and stayed for an hour to give us more tips for the next week in this part of Alaska. She is really sweet. She has her family medical practice here in Wasilla, teaches in Anchorage one day a week, supervises a rural clinic an hour north of here, and attends lots of conferences to do with rural health care. Delivered 65 babies last year. She also brought us an Alaska cook book, a novel of Alaska, a book of local short stories, and a book about flying in Alaska for Bill. She has invited the Burchells to stay with them when they come back here in March for the Iditerod. They Bill and Edith plan to fly to Nome to visit Patty and see the end of the race. Sounds like a real experience.
Today we're off to Anchorage.
Last Monday we arrived at the Denali National Park Railroad station at noon. Put luggage on the camp bus, parked the motor home half mile away in the lot, got a bit od lunch. bill shuttled us back, parked his van, and walked. Bus left at 2:00 for the 90 mi. drive on the gravel park road. Cloudy. Stopped each time wildlife was spotted:
Along the way we stopped and they served a buffet supper by a stream. (fresh-baked rye bread, smoked halibut, smoked salmon, wild blueberry jam, etc.) We kept watching for glimpses of the mountain range through the clouds--no luck! Quite a road! Didn't arrive at camp until 9:00.
As we were being assigned our cabins and served fruit and bundt cake, the clouds parted and we couldn't believe the MASS of Denali and the whole Alaska Range! The entire night was clear! Everyone was out taking pictures until almost midnight.
Tues: not a cloud in the sky! No one has seen it like this all summer! After breakfast Ken went on a "strenuous" hike up the ridge behind us. 8 miles. Views of the whole range. Close to a bear--Ken videoed.
Susie, Bill, Edith and I went on the "moderate walk. Down the trail to Moose Creek. Visited the bird banding station. The "mist nets" (traps) were all empty, although they had already done 20 earlier. Over the bridge past North Face Lodge, and up on Cloudberry Ridge. Spongy wet tundra, a difficult climb. No trail other than bear and moose tracks. Berries everywhere underfoot--blueberries, cranberries, bunch berries (dwarf dogwood), bear berries, cloud berries, views of the mountains and the camp on the hill. Stayed clear all day. What an experience! (Can see why the natives called Denali "the Great One") Didn't get back until 3:30. This walk was on the "strenuous" side of "moderate"!
After dinner Dr. Neal Brown of the U. of Fairbanks gave a talk and showed pictures about the Aurora Borealis. It is only dark (with stars out) from 1:00 to 3:00 am. We got a knock on our cabin door at 2:00 when the Aurora was at its brightest.
Wednesday the bus took 2 groups 38 miles back along the road to see the Eielson Visitors Center and then to the Highway Pass area for hikes in the alpine redion Ken did "strenuous" and Bill, Edith & Susie joined the "moderate" group. They were not scheduled to return until 4 or 5 pm. Since I had been up with coughing frequently last night, I stayed around camp just to soak up the sunshine and incredible beauty all around. The effects of the virus are still lingering. A quote from the camp staff: "Doing absolutely nothing is a valid use of vacation time!" For 2 completely cloudless days now Denali has loomed above us in all its majesty.
On Thursday's outing the bus took us 6-8 miles back along the road--dropped half of us and took the other half 2 miles further. We all hiked up and along Xerxes Ridge, with spectacular views of Denali and the whole McKinley River Valley. High clouds. Walked about 5 mi., past beaver ponds, through thick tundra, ripe blueberries everywhere. The arctostaphylos has turned brilliant scarlet this week--looks like Persian carpets on the hillsides. Watched a caribou, watched beavers, saw sand hill cranes on the ground, geese in flight. Our 2 groups met midway for lunch
On our final night--sunset on Denali at 9:30 with the half moon directlly over it. Got very windy in the night, rained hard, but woke at 5:00 to see the tip of the mountain peeking above the clouds. 6:00 breakfast and off on the bus. Numerous wildlife viewing stops on the way, but got to the train station by 11:30. Lunch in the RV and now I am typing this while we drive south.
Here we are in Fairbanks. Burchells will be coming over in a little bit for breakfast, and Susie will walk over from her B&B across the river later to see us. Bill and Edith cannot believe that we are farther north here than Patty, their daughter, is, who is working in Nome for a year. We're just below the Arctic Circle! We are told that summer weather here can get in to the high 80's but it's not been more that 55 or 60 this week, mostly cloudy, rained last night. No problem, we're prepared.
Yesterday we took the paddlewheel boat "Discovery III" tour down the Chena River to the huge wide Tanana R. (Best half-day excursion we've been on). So well done. Stopped to watch a bush pilot take off and land on the grassy shore (airborne in 200 ft.), stopped at Susan Butcher's (3-time Iditerod winner) Alaskan sled dog kennels, where she talked to us about raising and training the dogs; saw beavers up close munching on a log in the water--not bothered by our big boat as we glided past; visited an Athabascan fish camp--saw how the fish wheel works and a native lady demonstrated how fast they cut and prepare a salmon for the smoke house. Then spent an hour in a recreated Athabascan village. Twin sisters (Eskimos) who now attend college were our delightful guides. Cute, articulate, proud of their heritage--not at all hokey. We were charmed. Saw gorgeous beaded leather work, and fur pieces. This is still being done by one woman who is teaching her daughter.
After lunch we visited the Fairbanks Saturday Farmers Market. Chatted with some of the merchants and craftspeople. Ate dinner at the RiverBank Restaurant, which we could walk to along the river walk from our RV.
This morning we plan to visit the museum at the U. of Fairbanks. It is supposed to be exceptional. Then we have 100 miles to drive this afternoon to Healy (near the train station for Denali.) Don't know whether I'll get a phone connection there or not, so will try to ship this note off before we leave here. We'll be in Camp Denali until Friday--so I'll be off line for a while. Hope to have lots to share then.
Friday morning. Leaving Tok, Alaska, on our way north. It rained all night, but brightening now. Felt real cozy in our bed! Last evening we had dinner at "Fast Freddie's"--a good restaurant in this town with only a few buildings on either side of the highway. However, the RV park accommodates 150 rigs. There is a caravan of 44 here now--most of them bigger than ours! Local visitors center has a good museum.
Sat. morning: Yesterday we stopped at Delta Junction (huge river delta area of the Tenana River) and visited Rika's Roadhouse, an old homestead and stopping point since the gold rush here. Homemade Bear Claws for lunch (hot--meat and cheese filled), homemade minestrone soup, and cold bear claws (also their specialty) for dessert.
Next stop--North Pole, Alaska that is. A village just south of Fairbanks. Much hype about Santa, year round. I guess they answer all the kids' letters here.
Nice RV park in Fairbanks, right on the Chena River. Very pretty. Today we're off to paddlewheel excursion. Will try to find a computer terminal somewhere in town this afternoon.
The drive yesterday took up through the westernmost corner of Canada.
We spent last night on the shore of Kluane ("kloo-ahn-ee") Lake, the largest lake in the Yukon. The waves lapped at the head of our bed all night!
Today we drove north, paralleling the Elias Range of mountains, the hightest peaks in Canada. Crossed the border again, so now we are in Alaska to stay for a while.
I've got my voice back (sort of) so I can again read from the "Milepost" book as we drive and discuss all the sights with Bill and Edith. The little radios work fine. If one of us spots an eagle or trumpeter swan or something we can alert the other car. We're still looking for moose. Went through a nature preserve today called the land of a thousand lakes--all flat, forested, muskeg. The book said great trapping country. No moose yet, though.
So far the other 3 of us are staying well. Fingers crossed.
As we prepare to drive up the Alaska throught a portion of Canada to Kluane Lake, I finally have time to jot down some thoughts about Haines. A very pleasant village on a fjord that looks just like Norway. The Lynn Canal, not far from Skagway and just due west of Glacier Bay. The only drawback is that one of the big cruise ships stops here here almost every day. But it's too small to even be "touristy". They bus some of the folks up to a lovely nearby lake for a kayak paddle, or rent them bikes, or they wander around old Fort Seward and watch a totem carver.
The local native people are Tlingits (pronounced "klink it"). Last night we went to a dance presentation showing their traditional costumes, heard the legends told and then danced. Some of the dancers are local children, who are learning to keep the traditions alive and earning money for college at the same time.
Yesterday I visited the only doctor in the area--another typical Northern Exposure character. In his small house/office/treatment room. Had a bushy beard and wore jeans and Tevas, no nurse or assistant, his desk piled with paperwork he does himself; had a diploma on the wall from Johns Hopkins, and had the equipment to do an "instant" throat culture. I don't have strep. Just a darn virus. No voice today. He said that if they had to send traditional cultures out to a lab they would have to be flown to Seattle (if a plane could fly that day)--so he has to be prepared with everything he needs
Visited a fine local museum and also the Bald Eagle Foundation. A supurb natural history display with taxidermied examples of ALL the local wildlife. Today up the valley we will visit the Chilcat Bald Eagle Preserve, the largest assemblage of Bald Eagles in the world. Because of the abundance of salmon, plenty of territory, and some upwelling of warm water into the Chilcat River in the winter which keep it open after everything else freezes.
Some of the local delicacies have been smoked salmon chowder, fresh crab, and salmon Quiche.
The first evening here we drove up to Chilcoot Lake where someone told us a mother bear brings her cubs to fish. Very pretty area, watched bald eagles, but no bears.
We've just left Juneau. Had 2 hours in port (6:30 to 8:30 am!) But they did have a bus at the dock for those who wanted to spend the time taking a quick look at the city and a visit to the Mendenhall Glacier. So we took advantage of it. Still cloudy and rainy, but not cold.
Yesterday we stopped at Wrangall for an hour in the rain. The museum was closed. The "highlight" of that town was the children selling raw garnets on the pier. There is a large garnet ledge near town and the property has been deeded to the Boy Scouts, with the condition that the children of Wrangall could collect and sell them. Bought a chunk for 50 cents.
In the evening we had a stop at Petersburg, a Norwegian fishing village. Unfortunately it was pouring, so didn't try the mile walk to town. Just bought a pint of Ben and Jerry Chunky Monkey at the pier and took it back on board for a treat!
"Wildlife" seen so far: humpback whales, Dalls porpoises, spawning salmon and lots of bald eagles.
Just sitting here in the observation lounge, watching the cloud covered mountains go by. Thought I'd jot down a few memories so far.
Sailed on this "Alaska Marine Highway" (MV Columbia)Friday eve. at 6pm. This is a very comfortable and large ship. Over 500 passengers and many are camping in tents on 2 of the decks. There are lots of comfortable public seating areas, a nice restaurant and a cafeteria-snack bar. This is how people in SE Alaska get around. No roads! We are in a tiny cabin (bunk beds, toilet, sink and shower.) Comfy. No stops for the first 37 hours as we passed in the inland passage of Canada. This a.m. arrived in Ketchikan at 6:30. Rainy. Took a tour bus ride around the area, visited the totem pole park, etc. Sailed again at 9:30. We'll have an hour in Wrangall this afternoon and another hour in Petersburg this evening. I'm hoping Dad will have some photos to attach to this note.
Tomorrow morning we'll be in Juneau, and get into Haines in the afternoon.
There is a US Forest Service Naturalist on duty on the ship who give lectures 4 times a day on the different animals, and towns. And there are even movies and video games for the kids--so this is a pretty luxurious kind of ferry! Really a smooth ride--can't even tell we are moving most of the time. Our itinerary takes us in the calmer, narrower passages than the cruise ships can navigate. Very close to shore often both sides, and occasional small settlements--only accessible by boat.
We're settled in and hooked up in a RV park. Back on line until tomorrow noon when we catch the ferry. Then we'll be back in touch on Mon. Aug 9 when we get to Haines AK.
Spent last night with Jack and Jean. Janet's son Greg and Marilyn's daughter Shannon came over. Fun to meet them. We all watched a splendid thunder and lightning storm all around us that evening while sitting in the RV!
Haven't been able to see any of the famous mountains as we were driving north. Either poor air qualityl, or at times, low cloud cover. But nice temperature.
Here is the new van that Jack plans to take to Mexico next March.
